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  WoW Recommends                

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Lac du Salagou is one of the must visits and especially pleasant when the roads to the coast are blocked and you want to be by the water.

The trouble is - there are not many places around the lake where you can enjoy a view of the water.

BUT

It may look a bit like a campsite (part of it is) and may look - well a bit shabby but....

 

Le Mas Riri is a fine place to eat and the view sensational

Who could NOT enjoy a beetroot salad with a view like this? And the salad was excellent.

Madame WoW said her Chevre Chaud salad was the best she had ever eaten.

It is a lovely story - how the family came to be here after being ordered to leave their house in Celles - which you can see from the terrace.

The owners father was ordered - with all the others to leave what was thought to be the doomed and soon to be flooded village of Celles.

Her father cried and cried but mother said - why don't we buy that little shack and the land further up the hill?

They did!

And in the last 40 or so years it has grown and grown and now commands one of the finest views of Salagou where you can enjoy a beer and or a meal.

 

It might be worth booking in summer

04 67 44 63 95

 

WoW recommended - not the cheapest but the best view in the valley

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Va Bene - Sete

  •  It is so very hard to choose where to eat in Sete if you want a view of the boats and the 
  • activity in the port.
  • An easy test if you like it is to see who does something interesting with Fruit de Mer and for 
  • my money the Gratin de Fruit de Mer at Va Bene hit the spot
  • Several menus - the 18.90€ gave a fair choice and the presentation of the starter in a pastry
  • "basket" was superb.  Not great for character but you do get a good view of the port.  The food is good
  • the welcome warm and the pichet wine most acceptable.

In a parade of restaurants we did not regret choosing Va Bene

21 Quai Du General Durand

 

04 67 53 16 29

WoW recommended
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Le Terminus - Clermont L'Herault

A good place to eat in Clermont l'Herault.

Light and bright with an excellent welcome - this is lovely place to eat at the bottom of town.

2 prices - €32 which we didn't try and €22 which we did.  A good choice and the beef is WONDERFUL - large and tasty.  Also the Rouget as a starter was superb.  Good portions and a rather fine pichet wine as well.


Of course the station no longer has any trains but as a result the booking office is calmer than your average station!  Why not book your next ticket in Clermont and then treat yourself at the Terminus

WoW recommended  

 

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L’Harmonie – Serignan

Stylish and splendid place to eat with fine food and wines!

This restaurant is “just over the bridge” on the right as you enter Serignan. 

Modern light interior and delightful riverside terrace in good weather and a fine welcome.

Lunch – a fixed price menu of 18€ is good value for food which is just lovely and beautifully presented.

Lots of parking in the Theatre car park but also space in the lovely restaurant gardens

Reservations 04 67 32 39 30

 

 

http://www.lharmonie.fr/

 

A WoW recomendation

 

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Paul Mas - restaurant

 

 


This stylish restaurant has style, excellent food and service and a view to die for!

Fine and wide range on the menue - which includes a glass of wine.  Well worth a visit but probably better to go at lunch as the views are magic.

On the Montagnac to VILLEVEYRAC road  la D5 

info@paulmas.com


Tel : (0033) (0)467901610 

http://www.paulmas.com/index-fr.php

 

WoW recommended - though not for a cheap meal - think at lunch of 35€ a head

 

 

But for something completely different at a budget price - see below

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ASPIRAN - on the RD 609 between Paulhan and Clermont l'Herault

It can be very irritating to have someone thrust publicity in your hand while you are enjoying a coffee.  Many times the offending handbill gets to the nearest dustbin in double time

However the bright and cheery handbill advertising the Restaurant des Moulins survived - which is just as well because it is FANTASTIC value and excellent food.

Lunch for just €13.50 - evenings from €15.00

Choice of 3 entrees (salads were delicious)

2 main courses - meat and fish and both excellent

Cheese - two served

3 puddings - creme brulee just excellent

1/4 pichet of wine - good

And an excellent cup of coffee included!

 

Hard to beat we think and a definite WoW wow!

And the loos are clean and bright - one each for women, men and handicapped

Well worth a try.

04 67 96 64 13

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POILHES - between Beziers and Capestang

 

La Tour Sarrasine

How can a small town on the Canal Du Midi sustain such a fine restaurant as la Tour Sarrasine?

But it does!

This is fine eating, excellent service, exciting cuisine at its best in Herault

The menue is "market driven" - "we only buy and cook what we like the look of".  

So the menu changes every day.

The meal is a journey of delight.

Lunch - 3 choices - €17 entree and dessert

€24 entree and plat

€29 all three courses

The wine list is extensive and we had a charming white wine for €15 - which we did not think expensive

http://www.latoursarrasine.com/index.html

 

Restaurant La Tour Sarrasine
27 BD Paul Riquet
34310 POILHES

Tél: 04 67 77 06 97

 

 

A definite WoW wow - do try it 


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Pezenas - Le Pre St Jean

It doesn't look too exciting from the outside but do not be put off.

Though not the cheapest place to eat in the town it is "up there" as one of the best places in Herault. 

The menu is not huge (always re-assuring) but the quality and the presentation is just first rate.

It also has a value lunch for 19€ for two courses and the day we went the meal was "to die for".  We had fish - superb and a pudding of such delight - the only thing to say is - go and try it yourself

If you want to spoil yourself - this is a great place to indulge.

18 Avenue du Marechal Leclerc

04 67 98 15 31 - Closed Mondays

A definite WoW wow.
 

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 Belarga - on the Montagnac/Gignac road


It really doesn't look much from the road - you might drive by thinking it was a small bar BUT..........................

Inside it is another world.  Julia is an English women who specialises in fine home cooking without frills.

Terrific food and the best value we have found in l'Herault

 

The menu comprises


* Help yourself buffet

* Choice of 2 or 3 main courses - the chicken was delicious and the cassoulet excellent

* Proper Apple Crumble - the real thing - and a good selection of puds and icecream

* A 25 cl of wine - good drinkable local

* A cup of coffee

And all for the astonishing price of €13 each!!

You really can't go wrong.

 

Oh and not to forget a really lovely welcome from Julia.

Open every day for lunch and dinner. 

And in summer it is air-conditioned.

Carte bleu accepted 

04 67 25 34 05

 

A definite WoW recommended

 

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Beziers 

If you would like to eat by the canal du Midi then you should try the Raffinerie.

 

This mill, in the entrance, might give you a clue.

The Raffinerie was a factory which milled and processed copper sulphate as an insecticide for the vines.

It sits right on the canal - the "other side" of the railway tracks - and is a splendid place to eat.

The clever renovation did not seek to "clean the place up" but the new and chic restaurant has been fashioned around the machinery of the old factory.- almost an art work in itself.


The welcome is warm and the food just top notch.

Presentation is at the top of the scale and the food we ate, snails, deer, cod and carpaccio of Monkfish was just excellent.

Courteous and helpful service - this is a delightful place to eat when you are in Beziers.

 

 

You should expect to pay around 65€ for two including wine for 2 courses - though the complete menu will cost more.

Oh - and the loos are nice too!

The four partners have also recently taken over the stylish Chateau du Port in Marseillan Port.

Menu changes every few months - and always exciting

Book on Beziers on 04 67 76 07 12

Or visit the website  www.laraffinerie.com

 

A definite WoW recommendation

 

 

 

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Octon

Octon is a pretty village close to the north shore of Lac Salagou - and seems to be a place which attracts artists.

Indeed there is a modern complex for artist to work and display - Village de Metier.  It lies back from the lake though a sign cheekily boasts a route to Octon Plage - but it is some way from the town.

As in all "proper" French towns there is the local cafe - Cafe de la Place.  And as anyone embued with the slightest sense of adventure - it is a good plan to try the Plat de Jour.

 Rarely a mistake.

 

And at 9€ you really cannot go wrong!

 

The food is simple and tasted fine and was served with vegetables - somewhat rare at this end of the price scale.

 

Nice pichet wine and at a sensible price plus a cheerful welcome.

Nice clean loo too and with a seat.  

Opposite is the Orange Blue - a place which stages concerts throughout the year

A WoW recommended - and you get the bonus of being a little higher in the hills, cooler and without the huge influx of tourists you get when you are nearer to the sea.

Open every day except Thursday.
 
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Lunas

How long does it take to decide to go into a restaurant?  In our case 10 years but another couple confessed to waiting 12!

 But is was worth the wait.

Catherine and Pieter Burgers spent much of the '80's renovating this fine building but at the same time building up a reputation for their pizzas.

But it was not the pizzas but the menu which delighted us.

The Chateau de Lunas is a gem - the view alone is a delight but the food is just lovely.

You can choose from the full 3 courses at €26, or the entree and plat for €21 or the main course and dessert for €19.60.

We went for the latter and the duck with a supporting rice Camargue rice was just delicious and the

 puddings - well you have to try them

Evenings are very busy - you would need to book but lunch is easier.  

To eat in the shade with such a view and a gentle breeze whilst watching life go by, swallows dipping and diving and ducks on the river - well perfection.  

And to cap it all - the church bells rang out at noon.

Open from Easter to October

And they stock the Herault Times too!

 

04 67 23 87 99 or email - chateaudelunas@live.fr

 A definitive WoW wow!

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St Chinian

It is hard to choose which place to eat when you drive through the town - they all look charming but are a bit close to the road for our taste.

However - the Cafe de la Paix hides its assets.

.

Through the bar is the most delightful courtyard - shaded, cool and way away from the traffic.

Not feeling too hungry we went for the salad starters.  Gosh - if this is a starter....

We ate well and it is not expensive and the pichet Rose is one of the best we have had for a long time.

 

On the other hand this IS St Chinian - so it ought to be good.

A plus - they stock the Herault Times as well!

A WoW recomendation for sure

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L’AUBERGE DU PRESBYTERE (new owners - new attitude)

 

L’Auberge du Presbytere at Vailhan, near Roujan, seems off the beaten track (see directions below) but it is actually only a short distance outside Roujan and in any case its stunning setting is  an integral part of the experience of eating there. 

 

Make no mistake though, despite the very pretty terrace and 180 degree view, the food is the real star of the show here. The service too is exceptionally good, with the new owners striking exactly the right balance between a warm welcome and being too “in your face”.

The menu is quite short but still manages to offer a good choice, with many adventurous and well thought out combinations which work excellently together.

You get no sense of being faced with variations on the same old favourites that get served up time after time.  There is a basic formule, which changes fortnightly, plus a slightly grander one and you can also order dishes individually.

This is not the cheapest restaurant in the area, with a three course meal for two, two glasses of rose and two coffees coming in at 66€, but it nonetheless represents very good value for money. For most people this will be for a special treat and, at this restaurant that has it all, setting, food and service, this is exactly what they will get.

 A WoW wow - for food and view.

L’Auberge du Prebytere, 34329 Vailhan.  Tel 04 67 24 76 49.  Reservations advised since this is not a large restaurant

 

Directions       Relish the 10 minute gentle  drive up from Roujan towards Vailhan, keep to the lower road around the side of the barrage and turn sharply right to arrive at the large car park - before you is the back of L'auberge du Presbytere.  Wander around the side and take in the pretty terrace overlooking the valley below. 

 

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Gignac

Proper foodies and gastronomes - look away now - the picture below may cause you harm and could be upsetting.

You were warned.  

Described as "a burger you would travel and long way to eat".

We had stopped off in Gignac and wanted a little something before returning to WoW towers.

Now it is never easy to choose and there seem to be 3 or 4 places on the Gignac square.  So how to choose - well it was the mighty and happy welcome which did it for us.

La Table d'Emile has two lovely "front of house" folk - which would have made for a pleasant evening BUT - the hamburger was divine - from the local butcher and really fresh and meating and - well we have to say it "hamburger heaven".

Good pichet Rose too.  If you are overcome by an urge to eat a "proper burger" try 

2, allee de l'esplanade in Gignac - 04 99 61 62 68

 

A fully deserved WoW wow!

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MARSEILLAN - Port


Pamper yourself with a fine breakfast on the port.

 

Maison de Camille - nearest to the etang

 

Coffee

Bacon and eggs with cheese in a gallette, and fresh orange juice.

All for €8.50.

 Simpler "continental" at €6.50

Stops serving breakfast at 11.00 am

 

Plus you have the entertainment factor of holiday boaters trying to moor

 

A definite WoW recommended

Tell them WoW sent you!  

What more could you want?

 

 

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LODEVE

There are people find it easy to write off the town - but...................

                                                                                         

 

Apart from the stunning art gallery - see exhibitions page - there is a fine place to eat - the Hotel Restaurant de la Paix. (At the bottom of town near the river)

The food, ambience and service is just excellent and worth a try.  

Not the cheapest - 3 courses at 25€ and 2 for 20€ but it is a real treat.  

You can eat inside or next to the courtyard pool.  Probably the best place in the town and reports say it is a good place to stay

Set-menu price: 3 courses 25 euros or 2 courses 20 euros

WoW recommended


Boulevard Montalangue • 34700 LODEVE
Tél. 04 67 44 07 46 Fax 04 67 44 30 47 hotel-de-la-paix@wanadoo.fr

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A nation less obsessed with stamping out words like "weekend" "chatter" and "email" might be able to look beyond it's navel and applaud the work of Karl O'Hanlon who has single handed restored this tragic run down chateau into a top flight tourist destination.

Even the UK would pause over an OBE - but France would never consider a mere foreigner for a "Legion d'Honneur" - too busy trying to throw out the dreaded English words.

 Which is why we should celebrate Karl and his achievement.  This chateau was a disregarded gem in l'Herault - mouldering and falling down.  Karl though, had the vision to see something special and different and he has created one of the great international destinations in this otherwise somewhat basic departement when it comes to panache.

Having created this superb conversion into flats and residences Karl realised there was need for a focus and of course - a restaurant.  Also a great resource for visitors who have driven for miles (most of the other guests were from the UK) who more than anything else in the world wanted a good meal before turning in.

Chateau Les Carrases - in the countryside outside Capestang cried out to be a destination for fine eating.  
We can report - that is exactly what the Chateau now offers. 

You arrive in front of the "grand chateau" and step into a world of chic and civilised living.

An old storage barn transformed - chic but not "in your face", into a fine and delightful place.

It is family friendly with a good menu, ( chips and hamburgers for the table next to us) and an extensive but carefully selected wine list.

Though we had children next to us the spaciousness of the resturant is such that you have the space to be uncrowded and on your own.

The bi-lang staff are helpful and serve and advise with charm.

(WoW liked very much the response to "we would like some water"?  No upselling of the more expensive bottled water nonsense - but "would that be tap water Sir"?)

Bravo and even more bravo!

Did we say chic - well yes it is but not in a way which intimidates.

The food was fresh, the cooking superb and the presentation just fine.  

The dining room is spacious and comfortable - though the music was a little weird (why do we need a really awful soundtrack wherever we go nowadays?).  

Ah well a small price to enjoy the ambience of this superb space.

The service is top flight and unobtrusive and if you ask, there is a niche in the round tower for a party of 6 if you want your own show.

Attentive service is that bit extra you like when you take a premium meal and so when the head waiter carefully explained the wine he thought best to go with the beef was not quite what he would recommend - and brought a more suitable bottle.

He made a better choice than WoW and we thank him for his professionalism.

It is a lovely place to visit on an Autumn evening but we suspect it would be even more special for a summer lunch after a swim in the pool and a walk around the gardens.

 

04 67 00 00 67

resa@lescarrasses.com

 

http://www.lescarrasses.com/

 

Recommended

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Pezenas - La Marmita

Opposite the chic and rather expensive Les Palmieres is La Marmita - on both sides of the road - so it is hard to miss!

It is not very chic - indeed it is rather homely and adorned with some interesting posters.

But is is good value and the menu du jour good value - 2 choices for each course

Pichet wine is very good - or at least the Rose was when we tried it.

Worth a try if you tire of expensive -"for the summer" prices with wines at the same price as the West End of London

 

10 run Merciere

 off Place Gambetta - 04 67 93 49 75

WoW recommended

 

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Pezenas -  Bousquet Thomas

In the newly renovated and pedestrianised Rue Anatole France - a new eating place.

The menu is pretty extraordinary - roast Kid and a Donkey steak to name but 2 new dishes to WoW.  However do not be put off - there is plenty of more straightforward fare on offer.

It does look rather dull but it is a great improvement - matching the new look road.

The menu is on a chalk board and is regularly changed and the set menu is priced at €20 - which means a restricted choice of the chalked offering.

The pate - 3 pots for variety was excellent as was the roast kid - really worth a try if you are in Pezenas 

Do not expect to see many vegetables on the menu.

WoW recommended

15 rue Anatole France - 04 67 11 08 68

 

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LATTES - Mazerand Restaurant

WoW cannot comment on the price as this was a press event but the place, service and food is just wonderful.

There was a finesse about the food that few manage when there are large numbers.  Even the steak was wonderfully cooked - a feat!

It is open for lunch and dinner but is also a venue for private events, weddings, company does and so on.

It is set on a hill overlooking Lattes on the Montpellier to Lattes road

The press had a "private" tram ride there with the tram stopping on the hill right outside the restaurant - but this is not a proper station - you will need to drive

 

www.le-mazerand.com 04 67 64 82 10

 

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VALROS - L'Aparagus

 

True - it has as much kerb appeal as a motorway service station.  

But when 2 people recommend it - well it seems silly to drive past.

 

 



 

 

Inside  though it is completely different, stylish, chic and very welcoming.

You can have the menue de jour for €20 but we went the whole hog and ordered the €25 and it was worth it.

 

 

 

Fine cooking, excellent presentation and a thoroughly agreeable occasion.

 

It has the touches that make a place special - a delightful glass with foam and cream and a deep delightful taste before the starter arrived and with the coffee an amazing concoction of delight.


If there is a criticism it is that you cannot get a pichet of wine - you either have to order by the glass - expensive - or you have to have a bottle.  Why in heavens name in the midst of a vineyard you cannot have what you want is - well amazing is the nicest word

That said - a place to feel spoilt in - reservations 04 67 90 56 28

 

 

 

WoW recommended - but it is a shame about the wine.

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Mons-la-Trivalle - Gariguette

Set just off the main road Gariguette is a good place to eat.  

A small menu - so you know it is all fresh for you and pretty good pichet wine.   Menu of the day for 13.50€ is a bit restricted but for 18.60€ you will feast well.  It has a knack of doing something familiar but with an interesting twist.

Bonus in winter - a log fire burns in the corner of the room

 

04 67 97 80 30

WoW recommended

 

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PEZENAS – Vieux Coq –off the place Gambetta at 1 rue Albert Paul Allies 

 

Now re-opened and we have at last visited.

It is more expensive but it is very good.  The steaks hereabouts and not always the best but here they difinitely are.

Nice wide range on the menu, cooking superb and a first rate welcome too.

A good wine list but in fact the pichet wine is good quality too.

Certainly worth a try - we ate well and have no hesitation in recommending it 

 

WoW used to say "It feels like fine home cooking but with style and simplicity" - well it still is. 


This has little relevence - but we like this note on the board of a diner we once saw in Arizona -
 
Apple Pie like your mother used to make - $1.20 
Apple Pie as your mother thought she made  - $2.50 


Well it is like the second one and well worth a try and a fine welcome in the heart of the old town. 

What more can one ask ? 
04 67 98 97 01 


                                                                                                                                     WoW recommended

 

 

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Bize Minervois

 

La Selette stands on the R D 5 between Capestang and Olonzac and from the outside it looks a bit like a "road house".

It is not - it is a great place to eat and a friend tells me he would travel for miles to have their Snails.

It is mainly supported but the French - always a good sign, and by a group of splendid Brits who take over part of the restaurant each month.

Well worth a try and just close to the Olive Oil mill and shop.

We ate and drank well and the welcome is genuine and delightful

You may have to book.  Open every day, dinner and lunch except Tuesday evening and all day Wednesday

04 68 46 28 64

WoW recommended

 

 

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ROUJAN

The old Do Re Me has re-opened.  The new owners have made a crisp modern dining experience in the old place.

WoW ate well there recently and the food is excellent and well presented. 

More vegetables than one normally sees and so well presented - just an excellent meal.

Lunch though is within the normal budget (which means we can't remember!)

Also recommended is the carafe wine - good value and fine.

Le Petit Peche

8 bis Avenue de Caux

04 67 24 21 82 or 06 18 12 54 64

WoW recommended

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BEZIERS 

Good value and charming setting - sort of opposite the Cathedral is a Brittany Creperie and Saladerie

La Table Bretonne has a huge range of crepes and they are lovely and well presented.

We had one called Popeye - yes - with spinach and the Marche with lardons and an egg.  Delightful and with a half pichet of good Rose it came to €20.  

Hit the spot and was a good prelude to a vernassage and avoided the speechs too!

 

21 rue Viennet - 04 67 49 00 66

WoW Recommended

 

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MONTBLANC

The Mahi Mahi is not easy to find - no signs yet - but it is almost next to the Mairie.   It is new - only been open a few months but what a splendid surprise.

Set in an delightful garden - modern and interesting with plenty of sunshades and has a very crisp modern interior.

The staff are super and the welcome warm - which together with a very reasonable menu 12.50€ including a glass of wine - it is a great find.

Not the greatest choice on the menu but the a la carte is good and the Tuna was recommended.

Seafood Quiche was a good and generous starter, the faux filet was good and the tarte excellent - and the red wine went down well too!

Montblanc hasn't had this sort of eating experience before - it is a great asset to the town

Place de la Mairie - in a little road on the right if you are facing the Mairie

04 67 30 26 57 or email marty-fmc@orange.fr

WoW recommended

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PEZENAS - la cour pavee - on Rue Conti

In Pezenas there seems scarcely a road which does not boast a restaurant.  Many look good but .............

However!

La cour pavee is a revelation - a fine courtyard for eating outside and the interior is a stunning old chapel. 

Salads, crepes and galettes are the main fare here - and very good too!  Also good priced and excellent pichet wines (loved the Red) and Cider.

04 67 90 79 60

WoW recommended

 

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LAURENS - Le Relais d'Amans

Driving north from Béziers to Bédarieux on the D909 just after the turning to Laurens you will see a large sign on your left which says "KARTING" and just below it "Restaurant".

Thinking that no doubt the restaurant will be full of teenage Lewis Hamilton wannabees you will be inclined to drive on. This would be a mistake,as this is not so,and in this location not over endowed with good places to eat, lies the RELAIS D'AMANS.

While restaurant prices for food in the area are often reasonable,the prices charged for wine seem to be increasingly excessive.

Here the excellent local red wine can be obtained for €9 a litre, or €5 for half a litre. And the food is also good and reasonably priced.  

Lunch mid-week is €13.50 for two courses and coffee, and dinner and lunch at the weekend is €21.50 for three courses.  

Each menu offers a choice of two starters and main courses,the menu changing daily according to what is available.

Lunch last week offered a choice of :-

Croustillant de chèvre et salade

Terrine de campagne

Confit de canard et garniture

Pavé de saumon grillé et garniture.

 

In the evening:-

Salade de foie de volaille et pommes confites

Cocktail de fruits de mer

Escalope de veau paysanne et garniture

Dos de cabillaud,sauce homard et garniture

 

The list of desserts is extensive including a tarte tatin aux noix based on the recipe of the chef's grandmother! You can of course also order" à la carte" and pizzas are also available from €8.50-€12.50.

The presentation of all the dishes is attractive, and the service is attentive and friendly.

And who knows after a good meal and the excellent local red wine from Laurens you too might be tempted to fulfill that youthful ambition out on the karting track to prove that you too could have been Stirling Moss!

Le Relais d'Amans 0467 93 45 53

Open  every day from June 15th until 15th September.Otherwise open for lunch  weekdays except Monday  and at the weekend, and in the evening on Friday and Saturday.

 

Le Relais d'Amans  0467 93 45 53

PatrickWoW recommended

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PEZENAS  - l'Endroit

Stylish place to eat - especially if you have children who like to swim!

Over the Penne bridge on the Montagnac road

Excellent and well presented food - this is a delight especially on sunny days 

 Interesting modern interior too

 

 

04 67 00 44 00 - open every day for lunch and dinner

4 av Carrion de Nizas.

 


It was WoW recommended - but the last time we visited at the end of July we had the most awful hamburger ever - the size of a child portion too.  If you order one - we would suggest you ask to see the meat before it is cooked. €16 for a burger should mean a good one.

If you have a better experience let us know - at the moment this is only OK for food but tops for place, service and atmosphere

 

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Serignan

Well not really in the town but on the road to Valras – not easy to find but worth the trouble

 

It does look a bit like the back entrance to a run down housing estate – but have courage!

This is one of the great eating experiences in the area. 

The food is magnificent, the service excellent and the setting – well never mind the route in – when you arrive you are in a little bit of heaven.

 

Km 2 route de Valras - 34410 Sérignan - 04 67 32 26 20


http://maferme.fr/

 

WoW recommended

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MARSEILLAN  Chez Philippe - an absolute MUST

Food and presentation - it doesnt get any better than this

Treat your self - not the cheapest but - WoW oh WoW!



20 rue de Suffren

04 67 01 70 62

restaurant-chezphilippe@orange.fr

 

Recommended seems too small a word!

 

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SETE

It can be hard to choose with so many restaurants lining the grand canal - but we suggest you try something different and head up the hill to the Musee Paul Valery

The views must be some of the finest around - the haze in the back ground is the Med and between courses you can have fun plotting which boats will make it to the harbour first!

The restaurant is a relatively new venture which really exploits the view and the site in this very well designed '60s museum

At the moment the "special" expo is Valtat at the moment to be followed by the Cubist Juan Gris which runs until October - see Exhibition page.  And on the first Sunday of the month you can get in free to the Musee.


 

You could also work up an appetite by visiting the graveyard - some splendid monuments and what a view!

 

You might wish to book the restaurant which is sensibly named Brasserie des Arts 

04 99 02 36 92

 

WoW recommended - not the cheapest but what a view


 

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PEZENAS - L'Estourdy - next to the tourist office

If you like tapas you will like L'Estourdy.  Plat du jour can be pretty good too for €9.00.  WIne costs more but the place is lovely and you "feel" the charm of the place and the town seep into you.

Also run live music event which we feature on WoW when they remember to tell us!

04 67 77 46 07

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BOUZIQUES

This a gem of a place to eat fish and seafood and indeed anything.  The trouble is - too many places are spoilt by the parked cars and the screeching motor scooters.  Not what WoW wants at all!

For years we have used the few restaurants which sit on the edge of the Etang - but this is getting near to the high season and they were all full at 13.05.

So we broke our prejudice against the Cote Bleue "looks rather expensive and the car park isn't very jolly.

But needs must when the weather is fine and you are hungry.

 

View from the table


We would not recommend the Cote Bleue as being cheap - but it is sensational and worth a treat.  The "normal" menu is €29 but you can have an entre and a plat for €23 or a plat and a dessert for €19.  Wine at €10 for half a good Picpoul was not out of the way.

"One of the best meals ever" was the comment - it is a fine spot, excellent service, "properly laid table" and just lovely food.

 

 

And to eat outside would surely be bliss

 

 Go on - treat yourself and enjoy the lovely view of Sete, the boats creaming across the etang and a fine view back to the Bouziques water front - far enough away not to see the cars or hear the damned scooters!

WoW recommended

Booking will be needed 04 67 78 30 87

http://www.la-cote-bleue.fr/fr/notre-restaurant-4.html

The website is annoying and has irritating flash - but have a look

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BOUZIQUES Les Jardins de la Mer

Yes yes - looks terrible from the road but..

Google translate says "This restaurant run by a family of oyster"!

Not really - but the family do raise oysters in the Etang and the restaurant is built over the grading shed.  During your meal you might even have a loaded boat dock below you.

Like La Cote Bleue it is straight on to the etang - not a car in site.

Every thing grilled is cooked over the old vine trunks. 

 

Soon we will re-visit and go to the place we were aiming for Les Jardins de la Mer - we remember lovely fish and excellent lamb

 

Around the side it gets better! And the food is reasonably priced and delicious.

 

 

 

 

Phone 04 67 78 33 23

WoW recommended

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FLORENSAC Bistrot d’Alex 

If you get a wee bit outraged by the mark up on wine but still want to drink good wine but at sensible prices – this is the place for you. 


Wine is sold at the “shop” price with many a good bottle for under or even well under €10.

Set meal is €16. May not sound exactly cheap but when you count in the wine at many other places you will be pleasantly surprised by the size of the bill.

 

Mainly French customers – which WoW thinks is normally a good sign. 


Normally lunch only. Get there early and do a tasting before you go in and eat 
Get there – follow the signs to Vinipolis and drive past the ugly cave co-op to the modern tasting and eating place. 
Probably best to book - : 04 67 77 03 05  WoW recommended

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BEZIERS

As tranquil as it looks in summer or a nice fire inside in the winter.

Menus start at €15.50 for lunch - 2 course in the evening for €20.50 or a la carte.

Such a nice refuge in central Beziers          

                                                                                            WoW Recommended

www.restaurant-patio.fr

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LAMALOU LES BAINS

Restaurant - Café "La Capitelle" - at the golf course on the outskirts of Herepian

It is easy to overlook a golf course restaurant thinking "club, must wear a tie" and all the other English hangups.

But do not be put off - this is a very fine place to eat - good ambience and food prepared with skill and delight.  Not the cheapest - think €16+ but a well worth while place to eat.

 WoW recommended

Golf de Lamalou
34240 Lamalou-les-Bains
Téléphone : +33(0) 4 67 95 09 09

Pour vos séminaires, repas de groupes ou d'associations, banquets, mariages, baptêmes, n'hésitez 

http://www.golf-lamalou-les-bains.com/

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COLOMBIERES SUR ORB

 Auberge des Gorges de Madale

 
Keep it to yourself – a splendid place to eat! The chef and staff of Auberge des Gorges de Madale prefer to serve friends and locals and tend not to promote their exquisite cuisine. But do not for one moment be put off – it is a stunning place to eat in the Orb valley – and while €26 does not immediately look like great value……….. The price does include an aperitif, ad lib wine, muscat and coffee plus some of the best food we have eaten in Herault. 


It is just outside Colombieres sur Orb – a nifty left turn in the direction of Bedarieux and a most unpromising “arrival experience” Or from Bedarieux, just after the long right hand bend before the village and the “common” – slow down as you need to turn right (there are the remains of the old road which you turn across) - look out for the sign. 
The Auberge is on the “soon to be finished” model of French décor. BUT once inside and “a table” then the experience is just special.

Do not be put off by the look of the place from the outside

 Not always busy but always worth check on 04 67 23 01 93 – this is an culinary experience not to be missed. If you eat no-where else this year you must try the Auberge des Gorges de Madale – an experience and at what one ad agency in the ‘60’s described – at the younger price – i.e not steep but great value. 
Easy to go and on and on – but better to try it yourself – then you too can bore for France, as we are tempted to. 

There is no choice so check the menu at 
Menu published at aubergedesgorgesdemadale2.blogspot.com  - no credit cards

WoW Recommended

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PAULHAN 

The A 75 now thunders past it but there is history here. 

In the 1907 Wine riots a detachment of soldiers was sent from Lodeve to quell the riots accompanied by the Sub Prefect. The railway workers of Paulhan thought this a very bad idea and frustrated the intervention be removing one of the rails on the track. 
 
A helpful chap – no doubt with a red flag and a fine uniform – flagged down the train and explained “too dangerous to proceed – the line has been broken”. 

Rather than waste the opportunity to introduce the Lodeve fighting force to the local wines – he helpfully suggested a tasting.

The soldiers found this a fine idea but what to do with the Sub Prefect? 
In the end they, and the locals decided to lock him up for the day and set about the important business of wine tasting. 

As dusk began to fall the infantrymens minds were drawn to the other important religion of the South – dinner. 


It was after all too late to do much to help in Beziers where a hundred thousand or so rioters had gathered – so they reckoned the best plan would be to return to Lodeve. 
Only at the last minute did they remember the Sub Prefect – who they had freed and returned to the train and thence to Lodeve. History does not record his thoughts on the matter! 

But a plaque in the disused station does commemorate the brave and thoughtful solidarity of Paulhan 


Bar du Commerce 

Whilst paying homage to the brave railway men - the thought of food might come upon you to. 

And so why not follow the WoW recommendation and visit the Bar du Commerce for a fine meal for just €12 including wine and 3 courses. Alll fine and worth the detour – and think of it as belated support to the locals who helped their revolting friends in Beziers. 

In the summer there is a good shaded terrace too 04 67 25 35 88 

 

WoW Recommended

 

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MARSEILLAN - La Ferme Marine - a WoW paradise if you like shellfish 

To find it you have to take the small road on the Etang side of the cemetery 

WoW photographer does not do justice to this groaning table of wonder! 
We had a - eat as much as you like for €22 seafood bonanza! A huge table with just about everything plus some cooked dishes likes Oysters and Mussels grilled with cheese. 
PLUS you sit on a terrace, or inside, with a 180 degree view of the Etang and Sete in the distance. Not cheap but just wonderful if seafood is your thing. 
PLUS it is all "home grown". 

Full of French people outside in October so guess it is best to book once it is too cold to eat outside or in the summer 

04 67 76 14 59 - more info at www.lafermemarine.com - which also has a map - just keep on driving - it is worth it! 


3rd party view - couldn't get in - you need to book - but it looked sensational and they didn't do the snooty French thing when they said they were full - we will be back for sure! 

 

WoW recommended

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MARSEILLAN - La Luna 

 

Think of eating by the water and one comes back time and again to the port - so many places are ruined by a noisy and smelly road between you and the water. 

La Luna is relatively new to the port - about a year since the opened. 

The dining area is notable because it is not cramped - it is also distinguised by modern decor and a great "feel". 

The €19.50 menu offers a fine choice and none of the courses are heavy or seem to threaten the regime. 

First rate cooking, fine food and gosh golly - vegetables are served! 

Excellent pichet wine for €5.50 and, while not exactly cheap, if has a WoW "go and try" recommendation. 
We will return! 

As it gets warmer you might need to book
04 67 01 73 59 - and they take credit cards

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BERLOU - Le Faitout

Sometimes when you take a wrong turn it can be a complete waste of time - but on others you can just be lucky. 

We did not follow the right road at all and found ourselves in Berlou - never even heard of it - but there looked to be a place to eat and it was coming up to lunch time - so why not? 

What a find! 

Le Faitout doesn't look that exciting from the outside in February although it has, on one side the town square whilst the other overlooks the garden and river. The terrace we imagine is super in warmer weather. 

Inside is nice, clean and bright and modern - and some menu - but the food? 

Well it was all good - the owner Frederic Ruella takes the orders, advises - "no sugar in the crepe - no problem madam" and then cooks to perfection. 

And the presentation - just so.


We suggested it was the standard of the Octopuss in Beziers - which Frederic denied but he conceded that he has trained with their chef and the two tended to alternate each term as top student. 

All sorts of impressions - lovely table decoration, water jug, lights. A loo with hot water and little individual towels in the manner of the Ritz in London. 

It is a gem and though not cheap at €59 - we did have all the courses, wine and coffee. You need not spend as much. 
Wine was local and excellent and the food divine - don't take our word for it - sample yourself. 

Credit cards taken and disabled access 

Details www.lefaitout.net - email lefaitout@gmail.com 
04 67 24 16 99 

 WoW recomended 

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PEZENAS - If you miss sushi - there is no need to go into Montpellier if you live around Pezenas

All home made and delicious - it looks a bit small inside (well it is) but you can eat in comfort and now the weather is getting better there are tables outside 

Give it a try and they speak English. 

Email: info@hanasushipezenas.com - Website:www.hanasushipezenas.com 
Yumi Matsui - 04 67 37 39 51 

WoW recommended

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WoW tip for good eating when "on the road". 

Don't just look for a busy car park - look for the EDF vans - "they always know the best value and good food in an area" we were told 

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GRAU D'AGDE - ish - actually between Rochelonge and La Guiraudette - take the turning at the Hyper U and follow the signs to Rochelonge 

Les Vagues 

It has style, warmth, welcome and fabulous food with a view to die for. A sailing boat slid past in the dusk - just like a movie 


Entrees from €11 - 16 - plats from €19 - 29 and wine from €16 a bottle - but this is the real thing and just the place to suggest to nice guests who offer to take you out to dinner. 
A real WoW wow for this one - and the sell Plume - the 9% low alcohol wine - so you can enjoy your wine 
04 67 39 08 63 or restaurantlesvagues@gmail.com 

 

This is the "entrance experience" and the out of focus in the distance is the Med - this is on the beach but on decking. 
It has style, warmth, welcome and fabulous food with a view to die for. A sailing boat slid past in the dusk - just like a movie 

A real WoW wow for this one - and the sell Plume - the 9% low alcohol wine - so you can enjoy your wine 

WoW recommended


04 67 39 08 63 or restaurantlesvagues@gmail.com 

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Le GRAU D'AGDE - Adagio 

 
Possibly one of the best meals without spending a fortune with the added benefit of eating on a platform over the river, a view of the Med and sometimes the Pyrenees. Stylish modern feel, food and decor/plates etc. Wine a bit pricey but a place for a celebration and open all year 

 

 

 

 

New to WoW - a meal on a plate! - €15 per platter and just delicious

 3 courses - a bit like Cafe Gourmand but the whole meal!

 

 

See the website to view the delightful terrace on the bank of the River Herault with a view of the Med - a special place if you like a sea view and excellent food - not cheap but won't let you down.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

View from the terrace -  sea and river and sometimes the Pyrenees - a veritable WoW!

WoW  recommended

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PEZENAS - outstanding value at the Hotel Restaurant Saint Germain - near to the swimming pool and opposite the College/Lycee 

You might drive past a 100 times and never give the place a thought but.... 

But - note - the car park is always full! 

A good recommendation is that the locals of Pezenas flock here at lunchtime. 

It is easy to see why as the lunch time fixed price menu is €13 - which includes a pichet of good wine. 

The starter is an huge table of Hors d'Oevres and is a feast by itself. 

There are 4 mains to chose from and 3 or 4 puddings. 

Really recommended - though why I know not as you will probably make it impossible for WoW to get a table! 
Ah - the public service eh! 
And they take credit cards 
Phone 04 67 09 75 75 

WoW recommended

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PEZENAS  Le Glacier - on Place 14 juillet 

Don't be put off by the name. We had an excellent lunch here - lentil soup followed by a "proper" warming stew plus a pudding - fine Normand apple concoction and includes a glass of wine. 

Good value - full of French - always a good sign. 

No credit cards but ATM next door. 

WoW recommended
  

04 67 98 12 64 

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COMBES

Sometimes you want sea views and sometimes country vistas.  For one of the most stunning mountain views it has to be the Auberge de Combes

Well it doesn't get much more stunning than this!

Granted you need to be Jeremy Clarkson on speed to make all the hairpin bends - and a worry about coming down afterwards but............

 

This is sensational food - not cheap but set menus start at €22 and go up to €60.  But what a place for a celebration.

 

 

 

 

It deserves the high reputation it has earned.

You should check they have room for you as it gets very busy.

Even in poor weather they have a dining room which celebrates the view - worth the hairy drive - best to go with a light drinker to negotiate the bends on the way down.

04 67 95 66 55

 

www.aubergedecombes.com

A definite WoW recommendation

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CRUZY - Le Terminus 


Le Terminus is situated mid-way between Cruzy and Quarante in the old railway station. 
 
This restaurant is run by a partnership of two local young French couples that have a gift for hospitality and a pleasure in serving beautifully cooked, simple food, at reasonable prices. Menus change with the seasons and are presented in English and French. Great value lunchtime Menu du Jour from around 12 euros. 

Seating is restricted to the terrace during the summer months. Private function room availabile.

WoW recommended

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SALVETAT sur AGOUT

 When it gets really hot on the plain this is worth a visit.  Only about and hour and a half from the sea but almost feels like Scotland with running streams, pines and the lakes.

 

 When you see the '60's hotel you will doubt this WoW recommendation - but do not be deceived - this is a great place to eat although it looks stunningly unpromising.  Menus range from €12 to €38 but in the summer you may well enjoy the lakes hereabouts and this is a great place to stop - even if it has the look of a slightly upmarket Butlins

 

Inside they have done their best to give it some character.  Service is good and the food straight forward and well presented

 

http://www.pageloisirs.com/hotel-la-plage

WoW recommended_________________________________________________________________________________


MARAUSSAN  Le Vieux Puits 

Really excellent food but not exactly budget 

Set meals from €25 - 47 although the menu de Terroir is €17.50

Went down very well with a picky group of UK journalists!

 

www.restaurant-levieuxpuits.com

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LODEVE

Fine restaurant - used by the Musee when Parisian journalists visit to view the latest exhibition

Excellent food and nice outside area

Website hopeless!      

              HOTEL DE LA PAIX                       11, Boulevard Montalangue • 34700 LODEVE

Tél. 04 67 44 07 46  

A WoW wow.

www.hotel-dela-Paix.com

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OCTON - la Calade

This little village bustles with artistic activity 

Lovely setting a good value place to eat sitting alongside the church

 Menus start at €12.50 and upwards

Good service and busy view from the terrace - closes Weds in the season - Tuesday and Wednesday out of season.

Check seasons opening as they close in winter

 

Mas de l'église
Place de l'Eglise
34800 OCTON
Tel : 04 67 96 19 21
Fax : 04 67 88 61 25
E-Mail : lacalade-octon@wanadoo.fr

 

 

www.hotel-lacalade.com 

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QUARANTE

Domaine de Roueire

Set at the border of pine woodland and overlooking the vines.

Set menus from €18 - 46.

Closed Wednesday and Sunday evening

Ouvert tous les jours, sauf mercredi et dimanche soir

Domaine de Roueire
34310 Quarante
Tél. 04 67 89 72 68

www.latablederoueire.com

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PEZENAS -  Le Grain de Riz 

It doesn't look much - just a small house in the corner of the Lydl carpark - but take courage! 


The garden is a little gem of the orient and the interior is crisp modern. 
The set lunch is just €9 and it is excellent - a selection of tasty starters is served with one of the 3 dishes of the day. (The salad was really good and crisp). 

Included in the price is also - a choice of 1/4 litre of drinkable pichet wine (well the Rose was fine) or Green tea or Coffee. 
A steal, as they say.  And the set menue for the evening is delicious and good pichet wine too.

An a la carte menu also boasts many favourite dishes and the welcome and service is excellent. 

In summer there is a lovely oriental garden with fountains, ponds and fish and well shaded.  Inside there is aircon


WC critics might like to know there is an excellent clean loo - disabled friendly with a seat and soap, paper towels and a dryer. 

04 67 39 50 56 

WoW recommended

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SALASC 

Sometimes it is just right to head for the hills and Lac Salagou. Sadly there seems nowhere to eat on the Lac itself (correction there is a Hotel/Bar next to Celles but they didn't want to serve the other day - what sort of reception when you arrive at 13.00 and ask if you can eat and the waiter says I will ask in the kitchen and fails to return!) 

BUT there is the fine little bar/restaurant in the square in the lovely village of Salasc. It is true French food, decor and welcome. 
Set meal is €12 and the food was splendid AND had that complete rarity - vegetables! Not just veg but THE most delicious mix of Spinach, Chestnuts and Pluerette mushrooms - a real WoW! 
Good pichet wine at €4 for half a litre 
Also a la carte 

WoW recommended
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CAPESTANG "la Bateliere"

If watching boats while you eat is your "sort of thing" you could do worse than try "la Bateliere" which is by the Port with all the hire boats. Not only the movement of boats but you can see the Church tower too. 
Not the cheapest but certainly excellent food and generous plats and a good pichet wine for €6.50. 
Best entertainment is watching some dreadful attempts to moor up - if you like that sort of thing. 

04 67 93 42 77 
Owned by the same people who have Le Provence in Place Jean Jaures in Capaestang - a review would be good.

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CLERMONT l'HERAULT  - the Cafe de Negociants has a pubby feel - in the best sense and food is good and not expensive.

We have eaten well here - not expensive and a really nice place to eat in - in a London Pub sort of a way but without the crowds.

They take credit cards 

WoW recommended

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COLOMBIERES SUR ORB - Auberge des Gorges de Madale 


A great place to eat - WoW recommended 
 

Keep it to yourself – a splendid place to eat! The chef and staff of Auberge des Gorges de Madale prefer to serve friends and locals and tend not to promote their exquisite cuisine. But do not for one moment be put off – it is a stunning place to eat in the Orb valley – and while €27 does not immediately look like great value……….. The price does include an aperitif, ad lib wine, muscat and coffee plus some of the best food we have eaten in Herault. 

 
It is just outside Colombieres sur Orb – a nifty left turn in the direction of Bedarieux and a most unpromising “arrival experience” Or from Bedarieux, just after the long right hand bend before the village and the “common” – slow down as you need to turn right (there are the remains of the old road which you turn across) - look out for the sign. 

 
The Auberge is on the “soon to be finished” model of French décor. BUT once inside and “a table” then the experience is just special. 
Not always busy but always worth check on 04 67 23 01 93 – this is an culinary experience not to be missed. If you eat no-where else this year you must try the Auberge des Gorges de Madale – an experience and at what one ad agency in the ‘60’s described – at the younger price – i.e not steep but great value. 
Easy to go and on and on – but better to try it yourself – then you too can bore for France, as we are tempted to. 

There is no choice so check the menu at 
Menu published at aubergedesgorgesdemadale2.blogspot.com 


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COLOMBIERS  Chez l'Eclusier 

 
If you are stranded somewhat south-west of Beziers on the route D609 from Narbonne, the seemingly endless industrial zone is painful on the eyes, you think (wrongly) that Bricoman still closes at midday, it is lunchtime and you are hungry, help is most certainly at hand.

You head for Colombiers and head, additionally, for the Canal du Midi. There, you will find a delightful little restaurant called Chez l'Eclusier. The staff are friendly and attentive, you eat well and if you choose the plat du jour, it is not overly expensive. In season, it is wise to book in advance (04 67 37 14 77). Failing that, if you have to wait, the time will be well spent, outside, reading the amusing and original descriptions of what you are about to eat. A real gem! 
Peter 
WoW recommended
 
Thanks Peter - much enjoyed by English hacks on a recent press tour 

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SETE 

So many places - how do you decide? 
Well the Halles has a neat place where you can eat very alfresco - feels very French and worth a try 

On the Quay - - 8 General Durand - give Chez Fransois a try. It is not cheap but it is good and plats start at €14 but the ambiance is superb and the food and service top notch in this intimate restaurant. They are "producteurs" so the quality is assured. Try the assiette de poisson frites - 6 different varieties come with a fine salad - 04 67 74 59 69. 
Outside - bit cold now - gives a great view of the local boats and activity. And just by the under canal parking. 
WoW recommended
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MONTPELLIER - a place for a simple bite - Visit the Creperie des 2 Provinces 

at 7, rue Jacques Coeur - 04 67 60 68 10.

 
A wide - in fact huge selection of Crepes - delicious and swift with very pleasant pichet wine. And the service is friendly with the waiter even pointing out a cheaper way to eat by using the "formule" - very helpful. 
Good clean loos on the Ist floor - but note - the tap is for caterers and is operated by the knee! 
Closed on Sunday - otherwise opens at 11.45 and closes at 11.30 at night - so somewhere to eat before the theatre - or after 

WoW recommended
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PEZENAS - Brasserie Moliere

WoW enjoyed a pleasant meal at the Brasserie Moliere (overlooks the main parking) - menu de jour was just €11 and the place was full of locals having lunch. Pretty good pichet wine for €7 and all in all a very "authentic" experience. Feels like a French restaurant should be and - not so French - has good sized and clean loos - 2 for men and 2 for women. 


Oddly it is a part of the hotel Moliere - but not on the same site! 

WoW recommended

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MONTPELLIER -  Les Bains 


Just behind the Opera House is an oasis of calm and delight.

A clever conversion and very stylish - this once public bath house has you sitting where once there were baths and overlooking a courtyard of plants where plays a lazy fountain (or they have cleaned the filter).  

Or in the summer - eat under the palm trees and soak up the ambience.

Excellent food, good wine and a delightful ambiance

A really good antedote to the rush and noise of Montpellier

A little research reveals the restaurant opened in 1998 but the baths themselves date from 1770 - although a bath house has stood in this spot since the 13th century - established "to improve the citizens personal hygiene" The public baths continued to operate until just after the second world war.


A definite WoW recommended.


http://les-bains-de-montpellier.com/

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OLARGUES - Fleurs d'Olargues

Sitting over looking the old town with the bridge and river in the foreground - great spot and super welcome from the Danish family who run it - well recommended - and the loos are Danish best too! 


Pont Diable is the backdrop and the pretty town of Olargues perched above it 
Enjoy your food under the shade of the trees. Speak Danish, French and English 
04 67 97 27 04 

WoW recommended

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CAP D'AGDE Restaurant "Les Halles" - Port Richelieu - 45 avenue des Sergents 
Looks just like a fish shop from the main road but behind is a simple a deligtful space where the fish is excellent. 

 
As a London journalist remarked "I dont think I have ever eaten such good fish in a long time" 

Worth a try - expecially if you have been to the Ephebe Musee - a couple of minutes walk away - then after eating wander and look at the boats and consider the oft told remark that 90% never seem to move. 
Tél. : 04.67.26.82.93 www.leshallesauxpoissons.com

WoW recommended
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BEZIERS - Les Halles 



Fine idea - you go around the market and pick up the freshest of fresh food you would like to eat then take it to the bar and they cook it for you for €1 per portion. 

On the other corner of the Halles is a pretty good place too - forgotten the name and ate there a long time ago so can't vouch for the quality or prices. Bit Covent Garden market style if you like that sort of thing. 

NOTE - SETE has the same sort of thing in the Halles - but they choose the fish and seafood for you - amazing seafood but it can be dear

WoW recommended

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AIGUES-MORTES 

 

How to choose a place to eat in this splendid time capsule of a town? 

Well Wine Blah is a great guide and suggests, not the fine square but somewhere "just around the corner"! 

Chez Carriere is a great find - well priced for a quality meal with a fine range of fish and seafood as well as meat. Lovely atmosphere and ambience AND a WoW award for an excellent pichet of red wine. Full meal with coffee for 2 for €35 - a real find. 
And if you would like to spend more time in the town they have 20 bedrooms and they are open year round. 
www.chezcarriere.com 

WoW recommended

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